Map transfer tutorial? Plus Iray woes

I want to put Monsterina on Hitomi. I know DAZ has a tutorial at YouTube, but it’s a bit fast-paced and I do better with written documentation. A Google search turned up a few, but I didn’t find them as helpful as I’d have liked. Suggestions, anyone?

(( Totally unrelated to the above, HiveWire is getting ready to put out a special edition for Dawn, with new textures, hair, etc. So far, looks pretty nice! I’ll pick it up when it comes out; it’s a decent price for a bundle.))

I’ve slowly been poking around the Iray thing and still find it complex to an off-putting degree. I started with something simple — the light emitter shader preset. Figured it would be a good choice for coflek-gnorg’s multiple Space Segment props, which are difficult for lighting (and cameras.)


1. The original light set up from waaaay back when I built these .daz scenes; 3Delight render.


2. Switched to Iray. Glowy lights, yay! Why aren’t the Bloom parameters with the Emitter ones? I’m sure there’s a reason; just wondering. And why are my white lights yellow? Also, I forgot to apply the Iray UberBase to the rest of the ship segments.


3. Oh, that’s why my lights were yellow; shouldn’t the default temperature be a neutral white? Without the Headlamp on Auto, the interior was too dark. I fiddled around with the environment map settings, but didn’t see much of a difference. Also didn’t see much of a difference after adding the Iray Uber base, but that’s something for another day. I probably needed to up the intensity of the emitter shader. Overall, not bad, but the scene is a bit dark. I need to figure out how to correct this.


4. Back to 3Delight. I adjusted the original uber light; the interior before was a little too bright.


5. Deleted the lights and used AoA’s Ambient Light base. Not bad, if now a little too dark. Should’ve kept the spec lights.


6. Combined #4 and #5 in postwork. I like this, though I still want a glowy light effect.


7. Ran the image through Flaming Pear’s Glare filter. Took 5 seconds. Not realism based, I know, but it just looks better to my eye and takes way less time than fiddling for hours with settings I’m struggling to understand.

I don’t see myself giving up on 3Delight any time soon, tbh.


10 thoughts on “Map transfer tutorial? Plus Iray woes

  1. I did a few conversions between UVs of the same figure (that should be easy), but not between different generations. I’ll need to see if it can work at all.

    With Iray, the trick is that you have to put on your photographer hat and never take it off. And it’s not a point-and-shoot kinda hat.

    The brightness of the whole scene is in the camera – the f-stop, ISO and shutter speed settings of the render settings pane. It’s also where you adjust white balance to match your light temperature (our vision adapts automagically, so that we don’t notice that colour temperatures are _that_ strongly coloured, but no camera I’ve ever shot with had a reliable automatic white balance! Maybe the $1000+ cameras do, but then, their owners do everything manually because they’re Pro Artists ™ =) ). Bloom is also a camera effect – it happens inside it (and inside our eyes), unlike volumetric effects like godrays. So that’s why it has no controls on the light side.

    I agree it was mighty confusing on DAZ part, setting the ‘camera’ defaults for a sunlit scene but then leaving the default emitter at tungsten (incandescent bulb) temperature – whoever uses those bulbs anymore?

    All in all, apart from measuring light intensities in real world units (which enables the camera-like tonemapping part), there’s nothing Iray can do that 3Delight cannot. It’s just that the DS integration of Iray is less… ancient.

  2. Most of the tutorials I found were either for G2F/G2M or from Gen4 to Genesis 1. There is this product:

    It’s not hugely expensive, but still more than I’d like to pay for something I’d use a couple of times. I’ve bought M6, Marius, V6, Olympia, and Monsterina — V6 was actually free and Monsterina part of the bundle on sale, so she was an “extra” — and I only have a few others textures marked for a “maybe” buy. So this is definitely a low-use scenario.

    Re: Iray, I remember what you said about lighting interior scenes, and I kept that in mind as I was fiddling with settings. I am not a photographer, though, and all this is rather confusing. Even so, I’ll continue to play around with settings and pay more attention to the camera side of things.

    I usually only adjust Depth of Field and/or Focal Length. Guess I’ve never been particularly camera-adventurous. 🙂

    Maybe I shouldn’t have added Bloom to my emitters, but it has a nicely dramatic effect. I’m big on drama!

    The Iray results are harder-edged looking, I think. Definitely more starkly shadowed. Uber2 will give me even illumination and ambient occlusion, but not shadows like that. At least not without adding other lights.

  3. I should add that I’m doing okay with starting to learn how to do basic hdr renders, it’s the interior ones that are more of a problem. Anyway, Olympia with bare bones Iray:

    A small bit of contrast/saturation adjustment in postwork, just because.

    • Looking good! HDR stuff should be easy.

      Interiors, they _are_ a pain. Because they are a pain to shoot IRL. The camera just doesn’t see the way our eyes do; it has less dynamic range and it doesn’t dynamically adapt to the light the way our vision does.

      This is why all those movie sets have those lighting artists in charge of a thousand lights, and photographers come to shoot with all those reflectors, bounce cards and other dedicated CHEATS! =D

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